Tasting Menu at Tarquino and other Food news and lists

I had a great dinner at Tarquino in Buenos Aires last week, one of Latin America’s 50 best. First of all the location is beautiful, loved the vertical garden and the ceiling.

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This was our seven course menu…20160323_213153.jpg

… and here it is in picture form

Pollo y Huevo (chicken and egg) – this was a very interesting little bite. Lots of texture and the bottom was an actual chicken skin. Not my favorite dish of the night but a great starter20160323_215501-1.jpg

Langostino y cochinillo (shrimp and pork) -The theme of the night was contrasts and here it really was evident. The little pork on the bottom was extremely juicy, and the leather on top made of shrimp was not only highly inventive, but generate d a very unexpected flavor complement to the pork .The cucumber ice cream was a great addition as it not only rounded out the flavor of the bite, but it generated temperature contrasts in a savory dish that were quite unique20160323_220625.jpg

Pesca y Osobucco (fish and Osobucco) : I forgot to take a picture of this. Another mix of different worlds, here seal and land to great effect. It was a piece of fish in an Osobucco broth. Personally it wasn’t my favorite dish of the night, but it definitely was for some people at my table.

Molleja (sweetbread) – the problem with tasting menus in Argentina is that they love sweetbreads and i hate them (Same thing happened at Tegui). I however did have a couple of tastes of this one, and surprisingly for sweetbreads it was extremely tasty. The little wine sphere with the provolone foam and the sweetbread was an explosive (no pun intended) combination. 20160323_223637-1.jpg

Carrilera (meat and squid pasta) – i think this is what I would define a ridiculously sophisticated and inventive version of spaguetti bolognese. The pasta was actual calamari, beautifully cooked.

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Naranja, Mani y curri (orange, peanut and curry) – I was not a fan of this. the peanut just ruined the taste 20160323_232225.jpgChocolate Volcano: I am not the biggest chocolate lover,but this dessert was excellent! A  creative and dynamic take on the volcano (hence why I included the video). There were many textures and flavors of chocolate but all of them worked beautifully and it was not an overwhelming dish.

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Apart from the good means had, there are also good food articles that I wanted to share.

Food and Wine Magazine has published their Best New Chefs 2016 list. Who is on it:

  • Ravi Kapur, Liholiho Yacht Club, San Francisco
  • Iliana Regan, Elizabeth, Chicago
  • Edouardo Jordan, Salare, Seattle
  • Michael Gulotta, MoPho, New Orleans
  • Brad Kilgore, Alter, Miami
  • Kevin Fink, Emmer & Rye, Austin
  • Aaron Silverman, Rose’s Luxury, DC
  • Jeremiah Stone and Fabian Von Hauske, Contra and Wildair, New York City
  • Kris Yenbamroong, Night + Market Song, Los Angeles
  • David Barzelay, Lazy Bear, San Francisco

Conde Nast published their  GOLD LIST 2016: THE BEST RESTAURANTS IN THE WORLD. What are they:

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1. BAR TARTINE, SAN FRANCISCO, USA
2. LA BOTTEGA DEL BUON CAFFÉ, FLORENCE, ITALY
3. J SHEEKEY, LONDON, ENGLAND
4. PAVILLON LEDOYEN, PARIS, FRANCE
5. LA PINETA, TUSCANY, ITALY
6. BAR RAVAL, TORONTO, CANADA
7. CARLO E CAMILLA, MILAN, ITALY
8. GERANIUM, COPENHAGEN, DENMARK
9. REI DAS PRAIAS, ALGARVE, PORTUGAL
10. ASADOR ETXEBARRI, BASQUE COUNTRY, SPAIN
11. CHEZ VRONY, ZERMATT, SWITZERLAND
12. OX, BELFAST, NORTHERN IRELAND
13. SILVEREYE, SYDNEY, AUSTRALIA
14. HARTWOOD, TULUM, MEXICO
15. PALOMA, PROVENCE, FRANCE
16. L’AMICO, NEW YORK, USA
17. TABERNA DO MERCADO, LONDON, ENGLAND
18. LA MAR, BUENOS AIRES, ARGENTINA

I think using the work the best restaurants in the world is giving too much credit to this list, It should be the cool restaurants we are loving right now, or something like that. under that moniker it is a much better list. I’ve only been to 3: L’amico, La mar and J. Sheekey and although i like all of them, the best in the world they are not, not even the best in their cities.

The Daily Meal has the 101 Best Restaurants in America. What is the Top 20:

  1. Le Bernardin, New York City
  2. Providence, Los Angeles
  3. Daniel, New York City
  4. Eleven Madison Park, New York City
  5. The French Laundry, Yountville, Calif
  6. L’Atelier de Joel Robuchon, Las Vegas
  7. Restaurant Guy Savoy, Las Vegas
  8. Gabriel Kreuther, New York City
  9. Spago, Los Angeles
  10. Jean Georges, New York City
  11. Del Posto, New York City
  12. Per Se, New York City
  13. Bazaar, Los Angeles
  14. Cosme, New York City
  15. Masa, New York City
  16. Minibar, Washington, D.C.
  17. Next, Chicago
  18. Nobu, New York City
  19. The Restaurant at Meadowood, St. Helena, Calif
  20. The Inn at Little Washington, Washington, Va.

I’ve been to 23 of the 101. love that Oya is so high up there, but the list is just a weird thing, there is just a lot of love for the same restaurant groups (probably every single Jose Andre restaurant is listed and a lot of Daniel love) so it doesn’t feel as unbiased.

I had not talked about the NY end of year compilations, so Ifigured we could talk about them now. The NYTimes had a great compilation of the last year in Food with 3 great lists:

  • The Top 10 Restaurant Dishes of 2015nytimesfood.png
    1. Sticky buns at Sadelle’s
    2. Duck carnitas at Cosme
    3. Uni and chickpeas at
      Momofuku Ko
    4. Kao soy at Kao Soy
    5. Porchetta sandwich at Mekelburg’s
    6. Roast chicken at Houseman
    7. Shrimp heads at Tempura Matsui
    8. Pine leaves smoked mackerel at Oiji
    9. Peanut butter crunch cake at Untitled
    10. Oh luak at Chomp Chomp
  • The Top 10 Places to Eat Well and Cheaply in 2015
    1. The Food Sermon
    2. Mr. Curry
    3. Plant Love House
    4. Okonomi
    5. Kopitiam
    6. La Morada
    7. Haldi
    8. Izakaya
    9. Patacon Pisao
    10. Crêpes Canaveral
  • Top New York Restaurants of 2015
    1. Cosme
    2. Momofuku Ko
    3. Gabriel Kreuther
    4. Shuko
    5. Superiority Burger
    6. Via Carota
    7. Santina
    8. Mission Chinese Food
    9. Wildair
    10. Upland

NYMag has the Where to eat 2016. SOme of the highlights:

  • The Best new Restaurants
    1. Babu Ji
    2. Gabriel Kreuther
    3. Mission Chinese Food
    4. Momofuku Ko
    5. Noreetuh
    6. Oiji
    7. Okonomi/Yuji Ramen
    8. Santina
    9. Semilla
    10. Untitled
    11. Wildair

Some of these are absolute new favorites of mine like Santina – so its a very solid list.

  • The Best New Chefs
    1. Angela Dimayuga – Mission Chinese Food
    2. Yuji Haraguchi – Okonomi/Yuji Ramen
    3. Brooks Headley- Superiority Burger
    4. Sean Gray- Momofuku Ko
    5. José Ramírez-Ruiz and Pamela Yung – Semilla

To finish off, I’d read but hadn’t published about a new list called: La Liste. It calls itself Objectively delicious, deliciously objective. Their methodology Is:

  1. Review of the worlds top restaurants by more than 200 guidebooks
  2. Convert review score to a standard grade from 0 to 100
  3. Each guidebook was given a trustworthiness index by chefs from 0 to 10
  4. for all restaurants they calculated the average of all standardized review scores weighed by the trustworthiness index
  5. Customer reviews were incorporated with a 25% weigh

They rank the top 1000 restaurants, of which 128 are in Japan, 118 in France, 101 in USA, 69 in Canada and 59 in Spain. here are the top 25 in the world:

  1. Restaurant de l’Hôtel de Ville – Crissier
  2. Per Se – New York
  3. Kyo Aji – Tokyo
  4. Guy Savoy – Paris
  5. Schauenstein – Fürstenau
  6. El Celler de Can Roca – Girona
  7. Kyubey – Tokyo
  8. Maison Troisgros – Roanne
  9. Auberge du Vieux Puits – Fontjoncouse
  10. Joël Robuchon – Yebisu Garden Place
  11. Régis et Jacques Marcon – St-Bonnet-le-Froid
  12. Flocons de Sel – Leutaz
  13. Les Prés d’Eugénie – Michel Guérard – Eugénie-les-Bains
  14. Nihonryori Ryugin – Tokyo
  15. Martín Berasategui – Lasarte-Oria
  16. Pierre Gagnaire – Paris
  17. Le Louis XV – Alain Ducasse – Monte Carlo
  18. Osteria Francescana – Modena
  19. Le Bernardin – New York
  20. Le Pré Catelan – Paris
  21. De Librije – Zwolle
  22. Le Calandre – Rubano
  23. De Leest – Vaassen
  24. Kyo-ryori Nakamura – Kyoto
  25. Matsukawa – Tokyo

Clearly I need to go eat more in France and Tokyo because I’ve only been to 3 of the top 25 and 4 of the top 50. There is also a clear lack of representation of non European or American restaurants which show how little guide and coverage they get (no michelin or things of the sort). There is not a restaurant in Peru which is kind of weird!  In the USA ,  I am doing much better. Of the 101 in the USA I’ve been to 32, and 9 of the top 25. Here is the top 25 of the USA:

  1. Per Se – New York
  2. Le Bernardin – New York
  3. Jean-Georges – New York
  4. Eleven Madison Park – New York
  5. Joël Robuchon (USA) – Las Vegas
  6. Saison – San Francisco
  7. The Restaurant at Meadowood – St. Helena
  8. Atera – New York
  9. The French Laundry – Yountville
  10. Daniel – New York
  11. Grace – Chicago
  12. Alinea – Chicago
  13. 42 Grams – Chicago
  14. Benu – San Francisco
  15. Manresa – Los Gatos
  16. Melisse – Santa Monica
  17. Ichimura – New York
  18. Blanca – New York
  19. Momofuku Ko – New York
  20. Masa – New York
  21. Del Posto – New York
  22. Guy Savoy (USA) – Las Vegas
  23. NAOE – Miami
  24. Kyo Ya – New York
  25. Studio – Laguna Beach

Some of the coverage:

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